Fuel Tank

Stage 1 – Digital Model

1. Taking the digital model provided online, you are then required to process that file so that it can be read by the laser cutter.
2. Taking this file, we then needed to develop the individual pieces that would ultimately come together to form the structure of the fuel tank. Here we also needed to take into consideration the thickness of the board to be used, so that we could make the pieces have a large enough gap so that they would in together easily.
3. This file, opened in Adobe Illustrator needed to be exported as PDF. This “flattened” or made the lines more flowing. If this was not done, when the file was taken over to the laser cutter, the program would read these lines as a series of extremely small lines, i.e. left, up, left, up etc.. thus extremely slowing down the laser cutting process.
4.  Again, in Adobe Illustrator, open the above mentioned PDF file. Change the lines marking the different pieces to Red (255.0.0). This colour would indicate to the laser cutter that these lines required to be cut. Lines that we wanted to engrave were to be set to Black (0.0.0). However, we were advised that the engraving process made the laser cutting process slower and longer – so enraging was kept to a minimum (just the labels to the individual pieces).
   
5. Once the right colours had been applied to the pieces, the individual pieces were then manoeuvred so as to fit as many pieces per sheet as possible. This not only reduced waste, but also sped the cutting process up.Save the file onto a USB.

Stage 2 – Printing Using Laser Cutter

1. Load the Adobe Illustrator file onto the laser cutter 
2. Check the settings, and ensure that you are set up correctly, for example, set the material to Polar-
3. The program will provide an estimate of the time required to cut out your work. Check the estimate, if it is estimated to take too long, you may want to make changes to the line colours or check your digital model.
4. Load your material into the printer and focus the laser. Close the lid on the laser cutter.
5. Start the laser cutter.

Stage 3 – Assembling the model

1. Organise and prepare all the pieces according to the order in which you will be needing them.
2. Using a hot glue gun, and making sure to DOUBLE check that you are joining the right pieces, apply hot glue into the joint. Slide the two pieces together. The hot glue will help the model from moving or falling out, as you add the other pieces.
3. Repeat until you have assembled the complete model.Once built, you may wish to cover the model with masking tape. This may help you visualise what the solid surface would look like, while also making it easier to cover with paper for making and stencil making.

Stage 4 – Prepare stencil (Photos start at the 18^th May)

1. Take 2 x A3 sheets of paper and join them with tape along the long edge.
2. Using a flat head nail, pass the nail through the paper and into the front top of the tank. This will hold the paper in place.
3. With the paper held in place, mark out the edges of the the piece as best you can.
   
   Because it can be a little bit tricky to get a good read on where you should place your edge, you may want to take some measurements to try and produce a more symmetrical top. For this:
   
4.  Draw a line down the middle of the tank (lengthways).
5. Number the ribs (plywood that run across the tank) for ease of reference.
6. Using a measuring tape, measure from where you would like your edge to be, to the centre line. The idea been that later when making your stencil, you can apply this length to either side of the centre line, and in that way get a symmetrical stencil. Repeat the process at each rib.
   
   
   
   
7. With your measurements taken, and marked on the stencil, join your markings with one, flowing line.
8. Fold the stencil down the middle, length ways.
9.  Cut along your marking, and create your outer edge.
   
   
   
   
10. Once cut, open out to reveal the symmetrical stencil.
11.  Place the stencil over the form to check for accuracy and any obvious errors.
    
    
    

Stage 5 – Cutting out the aluminium (Attempt Number 1)

1. Placing your stencil on an oversized piece of timber, use a marker to trace the outer edge of the stencil.
2. Repeat, so that you have 2 x stencil shapes marked out on the timber.
3. Using the band saw, cut out around the markings.
4. Sand the edges back, paying close attention to the curves.
5. Place the form on a rectangular piece of aluminium, leaving approximately 40mm between the bottom of the form and the bottom edge of the aluminium.  This 40mm will also be carried along the entire edge of the piece, which will ultimately be folded back over itself, in an effort to form a more defined and pronounced edge.
6. Using the guilotuine, cut along the outer-most line.

Step 6 – Folding the edge back over itself (Attempt Number 1)

1. Mark the centre line down the length of the timber forms and down the thickness of the form.
2. Place the cut to size aluminium in between the two pieces of form, using the centre lines on the timber form, and the markings on the aluminium to make sure that the form lines up with the aluminium so that you have the same amount (approximately 40mm) around the entire perimeter of the aluminium.
3. So that the forms stay in place and the 40mm is maintained all around, affix 2 x screws in through the form, through the aluminium and into the bottom form.
4. Clamp the joined form with aluminium to your work bench. This is so that form does not move around as you are hammering it
5. Using a chock and a mallet, work your way around the form, un-clamping and re-clamping as required. Your aim is to slightly extend the aluminium around the perimeter, and create a defined edge.
6. Using tin-snips, work your way around curves on the perimeter of the form, cutting the outer edge of the aluminium – in, towards the form.
   
   
   
   
7.  Using a mallet, hammer the aluminium edging up against the form, so as to be at right angles to the body of the panel.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
8. Using clamps, plastic mallet and sand bag bring the edging down to meet the body of the panel. This should leave you with a thicker, pronounced edge.
   
   
   

Step 7 – Creating Reverse Form

1.  Calculate how many pieces of form (and spacers) you will need, to create a reverse form the same length as the model.
2.  Measure the height of the model, and calculate how high your form will need to be, so as to allow you to trace & cut (reverse form) the curves.
3.  Using the table saw, cut the pieces of form required.  
4. On a computer, open the same Adobe Illustrator file that was used earlier to print the mould. This time around, we only need the pieces that face up & out in the tank – the parts that you would sit on if on the bike – so delete all the other pieces, and re-arrange the remaining pieces so as to condense what pieces you have onto as a few sheets as possible. Save to a new, separate file.
5.  Making sure to undertake the same precautionary checks as before, load the ply into the printer and run the print. Collect your cut-outs.
6. Trace the cut-outs onto your pieces of formwork, ensuring to measure, mark, and check that you are centering your cut-outs onto the formwork. This will ensure that once all the reverse cuts have been made into the formwork, that they all line up down the middle.
   
   
   
   
7.  Using the bandsaw, cut out along the traced lines. The closer your cut is to the line, the less sanding will be required, but be careful, you don’t want to over cut.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
8. Sand back any areas that were not cut out with the bandsaw. Make sure the curves tightly adhere to the lines you had traced out earlier. 
9. Build your reverse form by working from one side of the model to the other. Stand your first form slice up, then stand a spacer up either side of the form slice, stand the next piece of form and compress so that your forms are only held apart by the spacers. Repeat until you have used up all your form slices.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
10. Tightly, clamp the lot together.
    
    
    
    
    
    

Step 8 - Hammer form aluminium into reverse mould (Attempt Number 1)

1.  Annealing. Because the aluminium has been folded over itself and is consequently very thick – it will offer up greater resistance, and will be harder to hammer into the mould. In order to remedy this, place the aluminium into an oven set at 400 degrees Celsius – 20 minutes should do it. This will release the internal stresses, and make the aluminium more malleable.
   
   
   
   
2.  Making sure to align the centre of the aluminium with the centre of the reverse mould, hammer the aluminium into the mould.
   
   
   
   
   
   

Step 9 – Cut out aluminium (Attempt Number 2)

1. Using the form shaped like the top panel of the tank, mark out a new piece of aluminium – this time without any excess around the perimeter.
2.  Using the guillotine, cut along the marked lines.
   
   
   

Step 10 - Hammer form aluminium into reverse mould (Attempt Number 2)

1.  Using the same process as with attempt 1, anneal your aluminium cut out. Even though this time it is not folded over itself and thick, the annealing process will still make this piece more malleable.This is preferential, especially as we will be seeking to really express all the lines and curves in the reverse mould.
2.  Again, making sure to align the centre of the aluminium with the centre of the the reverse mould, use a plastic mallet to vigorously hammer the aluminium into the mould. You may wish to use clamps to hold the aluminium down, so that it does not bounce around or move, allowing the hammer to deliver more of that force into the aluminium.
   
   
   
   
3. Make sure to hammer along the lines of the mould, and really express the lines and curves.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

Finished Product

***

A HUGE SPECIAL THANKS
Goes out to all the staff in the workshop AND the Digi Lab who are so willing to help out the endless line of students. In particular Gabe & Heather who give so much of their time out of normal class hours, are always in a happy and helpful mood, were willing to hear me out and propose some extremely helpful ideas that made the whole thing that little bit less stressful. It's these things that make the biggest differences for students. 

***